Incoming 230V~ Power supply is good – control box is illuminating

Salt cell is producing chlorine – set at Max output note the gas coming off the cell plates. Water flow is good NB! Clear plastic salt cell housing Cylinder is full. All the cell plates are covered.

• Check and confirm that you have power getting into your salt chlorinator control box – does the display illuminate and can you adjust settings? See picture.

• With the pool pump running do you have good water flow through the salt cell housing – are all the cell plates covered with water and is the cell plastic clear housing completely full? view the Video ……..

• Are the cell plates and is the water sensor clean – no visible white calcification build up on anything? This is a very common problem. Strip and clean the cell/plates anyway.

• With the controller turned up to Max output can you see gas coming OFF the cell plates. This should be quite obvious if your unit is working – see video.

Confirm the amount of salt residual / Level that is present in the pool water – the amount should be close or slightly above that as recommended by the Chlorinator manufacturer ( ppm ) – refer the operating manual or go on-line to the Manufacturer’s website and view. Uplift a water sample and take this to your local pool shop for testing or measure yourself if you have the means.

Record the pool water temperature in DegC. Record the pool pump daily running time in hours – Longer in Summer and shorter in Winter. Every site / location is different. All salt chlorinators have similar characteristics but specifications and requirements vary.

With the Chlorinator controller set to Max output the cable from the controller to the salt cell is usually slightly warm to touch after operating uninterrupted for a few hours. Newer units may not heat up as much the older models do. Some models carry 28A+ on the secondary circuit ( to the salt cell ) when set to max.